Business Traveler, April 2020

A P R I L 2 0 2 0 b u s i n e s s t r a v e l e r u s a c o m 4 2 D E S T I N AT I O N S Vivacious and chic this Swiss city invites explorers to discover its adventurous side A t first blush the name Geneva might conjure up an image of a staid European city with banking and diplomacy at its core and a rather stodgy reputation But scratch the surface and you will find a vibrant cosmopolitan city with an alternative side replete with bohemian neighborhoods flea markets live music clubs contemporary art and independent design Heres how and where to uncover Genevas cool factor VILLAGE VIBE Two rivers the Rhône and the Arve flow through the city A short tram ride from the city center across the Arve is Carouge Genevas West Village This is where indie shops cafés and artisans come together in a striking Italianate setting of pastel walls painted shutters and stone archways Dont miss the baked delights at Boulangerie Wolfisberg or the unusual flavors at Chocolat Pascoet try coriander or sage if youre adventurous or passion fruit to play it safe Go on Saturdays or Wednesdays when Carouges bi weekly farmers market is in full swing at Place du Marché Pick up some fresh bread local cheese and honey fruits and wine and have a picnic or just soak in the vibe Next head to the nearest restaurant for a spot of refreshment Try the relaxed bistro Café du Marché or the classy French brasserie Café des Négociants by Swiss celebrity Chef Philippe Chevrier Carouge also hosts a Thursday evening market perfect for a pre dinner stroll followed by a drink at one of the lively bars in the area for example live music at Chat Noir is a local favorite as is the funky Le Cheval Blanc which hosts local rock bands and improv nights in its basement venue Le Box BOHEMIAN BURG Just behind the main train station and close to downtown is the decidedly bohemian neighborhood of Les Grottes This area which at one time had a gritty run down air has been cleaned up a bit and gentrified Its a multicultural neighborhood that teems with artist studios vintage shops cafés bars and farmers markets As you walk its narrow streets and explore its leafy squares you can admire the colorful façades and turn of the century apartment buildings Check out the funky Schtrumpfs Building on 23 29 Rue Louis Favre a 1980s Gaudi esque apartment complex with a hodgepodge of styles and clashing colors Every Thursday the Place des Grottes comes alive with a vibrant evening market where local vendors sell vegetables bread cheese wine and beer Wind up the night at one of many bars and restaurants in the Grottes Les Trois Phéniciens Le Quai Des Grottes and Nomades are popular spots The Parc des Cropettes hosts a contemporary jazz festival every March ART AFFAIR MAMCO Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is a must visit for any art enthusiast Opened in 1994 Switzerlands largest contemporary art museum is housed in a cavernous four story factory building Drop in for a rotating program of experimental modern art or check out the evocative installations from well known artists mamco ch MAMCO is part of Genevas Quartier des Bains an association of 17 cultural entities including art galleries museums and cultural institutions Three times yearly the Quartier hosts La Nuit des Bains an evening of art appreciation when MAMCO and the art galleries in the area stay open until 9 00 PM Its a great way to discover new local and